Chapter 2: How To Crochet Hats
You’ll want to decide early on who you’ll be crafting for. Sizing is more important with crochet than with knitting since the fabric you’ll create has less stretch. We’ll assume you’re able to measure the head you intend to crochet for. You’ll want to measure both circumference (the total measurement around the head, at temple height) and the height (from the ear to the top of the head, or crown). The measuring tape should be snug, but neither too tight or too loose. There are averages, and we’ll list these below. Be aware, however, that one size does not fit all!
Baby (6 months +): circumference = 16” height = 6”
Child & youth: circumference = 18”-20” height = 7.25” - 7.50” Adult (small): circumference = 21”-22” height = 8” - 8.50” Adult (large): circumference = 24”+ height = 9.25”
You want a hat to be snug, not so loose that it falls off or so tight that it pops off the wearer’s head. This snugness is called “negative ease” and it’s important to the fit of garments—from hats to socks to sweaters.
One significant element to the fit of the hat is your yarn. You’ll want to choose a yarn that has some elasticity, so cotton alone is not a great choice for this. There are a number of acrylic yarns on the market that are sturdy, soft and have enough elasticity to be a good choice for a hat. As an added bonus, you can simply throw the hat in the washer and dryer if it gets dirty! The best choice is a yarn that’s a little thicker, a worsted weight yarn for example, and a lighter color. You don’t want to start off with a dark yarn that you might find difficult to see. Save the darker shades for after you’re a little more experienced.
We’re going to presume that you’ve chosen to use an aluminum hook for ease of use. For a hat crafted from a worsted weight yarn, you’ll usually want to use a size H-8 hook. There are two ways to hold a hook, and either way can feel foreign at first. Your hands will need to build “muscle memory,” so be patient with yourself. It might take some time to feel comfortable holding the hook, but try both holds and see which feels better for you.
The first hold is called a “knife hold” because you hold the hook as you would a steak knife.
The second option is called a “pencil hold” because the hook is held like a pencil when writing.
Okay, ready to move on? You’ll be creating a “preemie” sized hat with an approximate circumference of 10” and an approximate 4” height. Size, as long as it’s not too large, is
not as important for preemies, because they will grow into—and if all goes well, quickly
out of—the hat!
All crochet work starts with a slipknot, and the same is true here. Start with a slipknot and pull the tail of the yarn slightly to tighten it, but not so much that it can’t move on the shaft of the hook.
FR - Your first row of stitches is called the foundation row. In this example, which produces a preemie-sized hat, your foundation row will be four stitches. Holding the tail end of your slipknot, wrap the yarn that leads to your ball around the throat of the hook, from back to front. Then pull the hook toward you through the loop of the slipknot. You’ve done your first stitch! Now repeat that stitch four more times. It will look and feel awkward at first, but the beauty of crochet is that even if you somehow unravel your stitches, it’s easy to re-create them. As we’ve said before, practice, practice, practice.
Tip - you don’t want to pull your stitches too tightly in crochet, as this makes maneuvering the hook through your stitches more work than it needs to be.
Now, make a slip stitch to join the two ends of the row together. You should have a loose circle of stitches, with one loop on the hook.
R1: Chain 3 (ch 3). Next, we’ll make a double crochet stitch. Loop the yarn over the end of your hook, go through the circle, capture the yarn and pull it back through the ring. Capture the yarn again and pull through two loops on your hook. Capture the yarn again and pull through all of the loops on your hook. Complete ten more double crochet stitches, putting 3 dc in each stitch from the foundation row. Your first round will consist of 12 dc stitches, including the chain of 3 stitches that began the row (which counts as your first dc stitch). End the round by making one slip stitch (sl st) to join the first and last stitches of the round. This is the end of your first round.
As you work, you’ll need to be aware of the number of stitches you have so that you can shape your hat correctly. This is most easily done by marking the beginning of your row with a marker. A bobby pin or stitch marker does the job well, or even a piece of yarn in a contrasting color tied into the first stitch of the second row.
Now you’re ready for the second round.
R2: Chain 3, then do 2 double crochet (dc) in each stitch of the circle. When you come all the way around, do a slip stitch (sl st) to the first dc to join it all together. Remember your chain 3 counts as your first dc of the round. You should have 24 stitches.
R3: Chain 3 again, then do 2 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 dc in the stitch after that. Repeat this process all the way around your circle, alternating between putting 2 dc and 1 dc in each stitch until you’re back at the beginning. Slip stitch (sl st) to your